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Luckily I. He held her gently, firmly. There is no way to add seam allowance. Cheapest: Sharon Burnston has a page on making 18th century shifts and there are probably a few blog posts out there on how to draft your own regency shift. To sensible and tasteful women a hint is merely required." First, insert the triangular gores into the bust of the front panel. I prefer grommet tape because it's so much faster and easier. Powered by. Posted in Embroidery, Fashion, Historical Costumes, Regency era, Sewing | Tagged cording, corset, corset construction, Corsetry, gussets, Historical Sew-Fortnightly, Jane Austen Festival Australia 2013, Regency corset, Regency costumes, Regency Fashion, short stays | 11 Comments. Press the space key then arrow keys to make a selection. The stays themselves have an outer layer of cotton sateen, an interlining of drill, and are lined in muslin. (LogOut/ These may itch a little for a few minutes. Etsy uses cookies and similar technologies to give you a better experience, enabling things like: Detailed information can be found in Etsys Cookies & Similar Technologies Policy and our Privacy Policy. For those who still enjoyed or felt more comfortable with lower abdominal support, Regency long stays were one of the first longline undergarments which extended low over the hip but they were softer, with minimal boning often mostly corded (for this reason, historians often differentiate between stays, corsets, and their softer cousins, jumps). More of what, she did not know. For Regency corset making I usually use a thinner cord of about 3mm-5mm in diameter. Oh? If you ever get a mock-up for a custom item, keep this in mind. I prefer grommet tape because its so much faster and easier. As fashionable waistlines migrated upwards towards empire waists, it appears that women had their choice of undergarments. However, you may visit "Cookie Settings" to provide a controlled consent. I am a petite-but-well-endowed woman, and I have never been more comfortable than in graduate school doing opera workshops and wearing a corset while singingin fact, it was so comfortable that I would also wear it when conducting (my primary job)no worries about bra straps falling, the girls popping out or getting uncomfortable, and so on! Based on historical examples from Jane Austen's . Of course. Overall, however, I cannot say I would have been able to draft the stays without the instructions and do recommend them if you plan on attempting your own . She will most certainly interrogate me regarding you., She met those probing eyes and her mouth curved. Fear not. I enjoy watching her squirm and plot a counter- attack., That reminded her of the playful banter she shared with her cousin Robert. Theres more than one way to make a good corset. The first addition to my 2022 Regency Ensemble Project is the short stays. Centre front pieces, turned right sides out. When autocomplete results are available use up and down arrows to review and enter to select. Alicia met his frank gaze and a sensation she did not quite understand stirred within her until breathing became a conscious effort. Step Four: Again treating the outer layer and interlining as one piece, the side back and back pieces were sewn, leaving the front lining pieces free. Though the fashions shifted dramatically over the 25 year period known as the Regency (roughly 17951820), the general aim was to have a natural, rounded bust, in contrast to the conical silhouette of the previous century. If the boning works out of the channel at the top or bottom, it can jab but that wont happen if its well made. It took a few hours for me to draft the pattern, almost two days to get the toile adjusted and looking right, and then three full days of my holidays to sew it. However, if you are doing a lot of cording like I did on this corset, it can be a significant loss. These seemed to be mostly worn during the summer or if they were especially small busted, or if they didnt have someone to help lace up their staysalthough that would have been very rarebut these provided less support and lacked the smoothing effects of the long stays so they were not anywhere near as popular. We have found in testing that short stays often do not provide optimum comfortable support in the B size range. And if I say anything positive about you, shell plan the wedding. His smile brightened, lighting up his stunning face. Washington Commanders OL Saahdiq Charles Looking to Stay Healthy, Step )Corset shopping 1832: https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/collection/RP-P-2009-4133*** MUSIC ***Courtesy of Epidemic Sound: http://epidemicsound.com/*** CONNECT ***Follow me on Instagram @dixiediy: http://instagram.com/dixiediyI blog at http://dixiediy.com/I may not always have time to respond to all comments but know that I do read and appreciate them! Im just curious if you have any knowledge of the Origin of the Stays. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. My suggestions are to make a mock-up or toile and go to town cutting and fitting with it (make sure your grain is always perpendicular to the waistline though). Regency Short Stays skirts: after about 1806, skirts are made of a front piece that is rectangular, a wide back piece that is rectangular, and then side gores that are triangular. Could these be made and used without straps? Ideally, I recommend making the mock-up out of the same or an equivalent material to the core material you intend to use on the finished garment. Want to know more? Please help! During the Regency, Corsets were called Stays. She felt well supported but not restricted from doing the things she wanted to do. So for this reason, I decided to have a go at some Regency short stays for myself. Making Regency Period Stays | A Bit of This and That Easiest: If you are purchasing a pattern for your stays, you may end up with a shift pattern as well. In order to give you the best experience, we use cookies and similar technologies for performance, analytics, personalization, advertising, and to help our site function. Then I laid it on top of the outer layers (wrong sides together) and sewed a decorative stitch as a topstitch along the back seam lines, through all the layers. The Regency style of stays really just provided posture support and helped to define a high empire waistline, with a bust-shelf, that was popular in the fashions of the day. These cookies ensure basic functionalities and security features of the website, anonymously. Solaced has a new look! It is believed that more of the working classes wore short stays, (probably because they were thinner or because the short stays cost less) than members of the upper classes. I have been a bit behind on my blog reading and I didnt know you were doing the HSF! She might hear you., He chuckled. Author of In Intimate Detail: How to Choose, Wear, and Love Lingerie. The corsets, or stays, of this era were first transitional (where they transitioned from the eighteenth century stays to the new Regency style) and then they are commonly thought to have been either long or short, with usually little or no boning. Thats so exciting that you are related to them. Thanks for this tutorial. Nor is it an analysis of the costumes. However its important to remember that some folks (especially older women who were comfortable with their fashion or poorer populations who couldnt afford to keep up with the changing fashion) continued wearing their older stays for as long as possible, and there was much overlap of fashions of both over- and under-clothing). The side back and back pieces sewn in. Our Regency short stays pattern is the perfect foundation for the neoclassical-inspired fashions of the early 1800s through the late 1820s. This was achieved through a myriad of different stay shapes and styles. Most corsets made in this general style will have a solid front panel, two back panels, and may or may not have a side panel as well. You can also see the decorative top stitch on the seam (to the left). :). Hi Preston, In the case of this corset, it made the bust slightly tighter on each cup, and I had to add 1/4 to the width of the side panel and 1/4 to the width of the back panel. Now please check your email to confirm your subscription. Later, I discovered that another good choice for stays or corsets is Coutil (or Coutille), a woven cloth . This project has taken a back seat as I prepare for another event but I am definitely going to refer back to this when I do finally get round to it! For ideas on how to shape and decorate your corded corset, I have a Pin Board on Pinterest specifically featuring Womens Regency Undergarments. :D. Hi Megan, I found this tutorial very inspiring. The pattern is designed for 1/4 wide boning. There was an error submitting your subscription. That is a dilemma.. There are a number of different commercial patterns available, and scale patterns showing the piecing may be found in books and online for those seeking to draft their own pattern. Our Regency short stays are the perfect foundation for the neoclassical-inspired fashions of the early 1800s through the late 1820s. - Chelsea of a Sartorial Statement, "I get excited every time a new post from Anneliese appears in my inbox. It is very helpful! I was in desperate need of a Regency-era corset that was easier to wear than my traditional long-line style of stays that spiral laced in the back. Cookies and similar technologies are used to improve your experience, to do things like: Without these technologies, things like personalized recommendations, your account preferences, or localisation may not work correctly. My lord.. This particular corset was not based upon a single extant corset, but instead drew upon aspects of several different extant corsets. Thank you so very much for this tutorial! - Hannah of Fabric & Fiction, Copyright 2014-2023 Anneliese Meck. This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. It does Many thanks! Toile pattern pieces: Front, side back and back. Whats an Appropriate Waist Reduction For Me? You can find us on social media at Instagram and Facebook. Please contact the corset makers for more information about their locally made, ready-to-wear corsets. I've been wanting to make myself a set of short stays. I can't wait to make one for myself. The art of dancing, she found as the set began, had not abandoned her as completely as her wits. Apparantly my measurement for underbust to mid-bust is shorter than underbust to armscyre. Slouching is not really an option in a long corset due to the busk. I am really having fun with it (which is what counts most of all, I think!). I dont know how authentic it is, but it has a nice, stiff feel. Our stay and corset patterns arebased closely on historical shapes and extant examples, but utilize modern construction techniques and materials to bring you an accurate silhouette in a sturdy, comfortable garment. Even while dancing with the very handsome Duke of Suttenberg two Seasons ago, such a keen attraction for a man had never overcome her as it did tonight. Required fields are marked *. Its simply not possible. DIGITAL PDF PATTERNS ARE AVAILABLE AT OURDIGITAL PATTERN SHOP, Materials for Short StaysFabricAll SizesStrength layer (coutil, twill, drill):5/8 yd @ 60 wide | .75 yd @ 54 wide | 1 yd @ 45 wideOptional outer fashion fabric (mid-weight cotton, linen, etc. Your aunt is a strong woman and a kind lady, my lord. My main gripe is how long it takes to get into them, and that I cant do it by myself. Regency seams, on the other hand, are generally off the shoulder, not under the arm, and, on the back, are straight or form a more gentle curve. Every contribution makes a big difference, thank you! All the examples I saw had gores for the bust, and shoulder straps. Lady Jane's Clothing 1790's Transitional Stays Corset, $179. fjs.parentNode.insertBefore(js, fjs); you agree that you are voluntarily participating in such activities, you assume all risk of injury to yourself, and you agree to release and discharge Lucy Corsetry from any and all claims or causes of action, known or unknown, arising out of Lucy Corsetry's negligence. :), Do you need to add seam allowance to each panel? This corset is plus sized, made with five panels total (one front, two side, and two back). Regency Short Stays - ClusterFrock Etsys 100% renewable electricity commitment includes the electricity used by the data centers that host Etsy.com, the Sell on Etsy app, and the Etsy app, as well as the electricity that powers Etsys global offices and employees working remotely from home in the US. Take note of these distances on yourself and modify the pattern vertically so its bust, underbust, waist, and hip match up to your own. No longer merely polite, his smile broadened, warmed, transforming an already handsome face into a perfectly stunning visage. The Lingerie Addict is generously supported by its advertisers. If you have another method that works for you, by all means use that method. The stays are absolutely gorgeous and I think I might use your stays tutorial and brave a bit of drafting for the undergarmet challenge. I have a rather large bust, so this is the configuration that worked for me, but fiddling with the measurements a bit shouldn't cause any major problems! Try using a different browser or disabling ad blockers. You WILL lose some width in the pattern to the cording, because the fabric must go around the cords and will not be laying perfectly flat. See below. At least the short stays are relatively simple as far as corsets go, in terms of pattern pieces. Optional outer fashion fabric (mid-weight cotton, linen, etc. Overall, Regency stays really are quite comfortable and nice to wear. Find out more in our Cookies & Similar Technologies Policy. Includes multi-sized printed pattern, sewing instructions, fitting & mockup guides, and list of supply resources. You may also need more bones. check it out at [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TUSteEvqpqE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TUSteEvqpqE))*** REFERENCES ***Blog post with original pattern in centimeters: https://kleidungum1800.blogspot.com/2014/05/short-stays-studies-schnurleib-studien.htmlExtant corset: https://www.centraalmuseum.nl/nl/collectie/20472-corsetNOTE: If you want to try this style but want to save some time drafting and resizing, I recommend using the front pieces of the Redthreaded 1790s stays and drawing your own back piece that resembles the museum corset: https://www.etsy.com/shop/Redthreaded?ref=simple-shop-header-name\u0026listing_id=535555759\u0026section_id=29937511My previous corset sewing videos playlist:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJaibfB0Fck\u0026list=PLJvVOokVyYh0fhNhmCAijdjjO-gLfOSs6Some additional research:http://corsetradesigns.blogspot.com/2012/02/corset-en-x-1810.htmlhttps://stars-design-eva.blogspot.com/2014/07/a-pair-of-utrecht-stays.htmlhttps://ateliernostalgia.wordpress.com/2018/08/20/the-corset-elastique-and-an-overview-of-regency-short-stays/*** SUPPLIES ***1\" Twill tape: https://www.twilltape.com/lightweight-1-white-twill-tape-72-yard-roll/1/8\" Twill tape: https://www.twilltape.com/1-8-1/Frixion pens (that disappear with heat): https://amzn.to/2NgE5XO(affiliate link)Synthetic Whalebone: https://corsetmaking.com/german-plastic-boning-6mm-x-15mm.html]*** IMAGE CREDITS ***Corset ca. Check out the Official Corset Benefits Book, The Corset: A Cultural History by Valerie Steele, Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques by Jill Salen, Difference between stays, jumps & corsets, How 15 years of Corset Training affected my Pregnancy Experience, Corset-Adjacent Garments: Modern Descendants of the Corset. Later, I discovered that another good choice for stays or corsets is Coutil (or Coutille), a woven cloth created specifically for making corsets. More scandalous talk about Regency underwear. Now, off to make a pair of long, corded stays with a busk! If you end up desperately frustrated (which I have before! I must say that I work better with at least some pictures in front of me. While waist or hip-length stays were common in extant examples and period images, there was also a wide variety of shorter styles in the period, including some that experimented with elasticized metal springs! These cookies track visitors across websites and collect information to provide customized ads. A certain Netflix series, *cough* Bridgerton *cough*, has been generating a lot of interesting discussion lately, and has inspired a new wave of Regency costume enthusiasts. P.S If you just happen to be a reader committed to historical accuracy (as opposed to pieces that also can serve as outerwear), the two makers below have you covered. Just a few questions, for the measurements does au natural work, most bras now days have push up insert bits. Send me exclusive offers, unique gift ideas, and personalized tips for shopping and selling on Etsy. And I am really pleased with how pretty it is! example of a cotton Regency corset (c. 1800-1825), Achieving a proper fit with Regency stays, Examples and pictures of Regency era underwear, Short Stays Studies, by Kleidung um 1800, http://www.jennylafleur.com/study/runners.htm, Making an Embroidered Stomacher, from1725. js = d.createElement(s); js.id = id; Transitional Stays, Jumps and Regency Corsets - Lucy's Corsetry Or try dyeing one of our stock corsets yourself! The embroidery on the side back panel. Also, these were for display and play in a children's fashion program, and not intended for much wear. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. This tutorial discusses structural cording, which is intended to help stiffen a corset, and in that case the cord channel is made by stitching together two layers of fabric. If these are off, the corset wont fit and wont be comfortable. Regency Short Stays. The image was very helpful thank you! Thank you so much for taking the time to share this tutorial!! Alongside the everpresent chemise, short stays were the Regency Era undergarment of choice, especially for the posh set. Since I am using coutil, it will be one layer, and I wont be finishing any of the edges. Public collections can be seen by the public, including other shoppers, and may show up in recommendations and other places. This style is a lighter alternative to a full length corset. Shows the layers of broadcloth, calico and broadcloth. Short stays were ideal for layering under the high, Empire Waist silhouettes while still providing both bosom support and ample, heaving cleavage. Hi. I believe it may have involved a great Uncle of my Walter Hatch. Founder and Editor in Chief of The Lingerie Addict. If you are interested in seeing the short stays I made using your directions, here's a link to my blog post about them: https://www.robesdecoeur.com/blog/regency-short-stays-2015 . With that in mind, we recommend our long stays for plus sizes as they provide more shaping and support. This is one type of support garment worn during the Regency period, roughly 1800-1820, and a common choice for modern costumers seeking to reproduce the fashions of the Regency and early Victorian. Unfortunately, Im not well versed on Preston stays. Despite the apparent severity of the modifications to this mock-up, they are so clearly marked that I was able to modify the pattern with complete confidence and proceed to the next stage. This style is a lighter alternative to a full length corset. Annual Regency Ensemble Project: Short Stays

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